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Food

Wallflour, sourdough pizza pop-up with a cult following, opens brick and mortar in Eagle Rock

A male presenting person, with pizza dough covering his head but showing his face, sticks his tongue out and poses for a photo with a female presenting person, who has short curly hair and is wearing a denim jacket. Both are standing in front of a metal wall.
Brandon and Carolina Conaway are opening Wallfour in Eagle Rock later this month.
(
Arturo Oliva Pedroza
)

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It's been a long five years for Brandon Conaway and Carolina Pedroza-Conaway, the couple behind Wallflour (the pizza artists formerly known as Quarantine Pizza Co.).

Starting at the peak of the pandemic in 2020, out of their patio in Highland Park's Hermon neighborhood, the Conaways have grown to have a cult following for their naturally leavened chewy bite, crispy blistered crusts, and gonzo toppings by popping up multiple times every week at their home, breweries, private catering events and Smorgasburg L.A.

But the wait for a place to sit down and have a fresh local beer, dry cider or glass of natural wine with the Conaways' pizza is finally over. They officially have an opening date for their first brick-and-mortar: April 27.

“After all the years of abuse, it’s exciting knowing that instead of being at the mercy of the elements, we finally get to do things on our terms,” Brandon Conaway tells L.A. TACO, recalling years of hauling dough and portable ovens across the city.

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A spread of various dishes, including pizza and salad, on a wooden table. Three people, who's arms and upper torso up to their shoulders, hold pizza and beverages.
A spread at Wallflour in Eagle Rock.
(
Arturo Oliva Pedroza
)

Wallflour began as a DM-only operation, but word spread fast about their affordable pizzas with unique toppings. From a banh mi-inspired pizza to another with fresh figs and salsa macha to even a broccoli-cheddar pizza named "Broccaway Beach" inspired by the Ramones, in a time when pizza has gotten so serious, the Conaways are going the other direction — always remembering to have fun with every single pie they bake.

Conaway's experience working at celebrated Italian-rooted places like Osteria Mozza, Sotto, Ronan, Rosseblu, and Quarter Sheets guides his pizza compass. Conaway and Pedroza-Conaway were raised in Orange County but have worked and lived in L.A. for the last 13 years. Pedroza-Conaway’s art department background working in L.A.'s film industry also came in handy for the aesthetic and interior design of their dream pizzeria.

A blue and yellow mural of flowers is painted on a white wall above a seating area.
The mural in the Wallflour dining area was painted by Mermaid Hex.
(
Arturo Oliva Pedroza
)

Outside New York-style or Neapolitan boundaries

Their years of work take shape at 2128 Colorado Blvd. in Eagle Rock. It is a cozy, 100% bootstrapped, investor-free operation that the Conaways designed and painted themselves. The menu expands beyond the pop-up’s greatest hits but in a longer-baked 14-inch pie that can easily feed two people with a side or two. It's different than the pizzas they've sold while popping up, but "it's still familiar," says Conaway. "We want to remind you of that classic neighborhood pizza shop, but with a funky, sourdough vibe," he says.

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Their "Spicearoni," made with the type of pepperoni that transforms into cups when baked and drizzled with a hot honey they infuse in-house, is staying. But other brick-and-mortar-only pizzas will be on the menu, in addition to having a rotating seasonal Caesar salad, grass-fed beef meatballs, and desserts like a pandan olive oil cake and café de olla tiramisu.

A top view of a bowl filled with Caesar salad on a wooden table.
Seasonal Caesar salad from Wallflour.
(
Arturo Oliva Pedroza
)

When asked why they chose Eagle Rock as their home base, which is also home to pizza O.G.s Casa Bianca and Big Mama's & Papa's Pizzeria, located just a few blocks away, Conaway is confident that their pizza will attract a different type of customer, who prefers easier-to-digest sourdough made with regenerative wheat and is also conscious about supporting local farms and beverages. Their pizza is also in a category that doesn't fit within New York-style or Neapolitan boundaries.

A top view of a ring of cake with white, orange and yellow frosting and green insides on a blue plate.
Pandan olive oil cake.
(
Arturo Oliva Pedroza
)

For their long-established regulars who follow them wherever they go, it’s a place to find their unique style of pizza and not have to wait until a specific day for it. For their neighbors, who have been popping by, curious about what was going to open there, it’s an invitation. But for the Conaways, it’s proof that patience — like a good sourdough starter — pays off.

For now, they will only have their square Sicilian pies available by the slice, but they will eventually offer slices of their other pies as well.

A top view of a slice of pepperoni pizza sitting on a blue plate on a wooden table.
A slice of pepperoni at Wallflour.
(
Arturo Oliva Pedroza
)

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Location: 2128 Colorado Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90041
Hours: From April 27, 1 p.m. to 7 p.m. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

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